3 simple steps to extend MTB chain life

When going MTB bicycle Or any bike that certainly goes without saying, you know the chain is one of the key components of a bike’s drivetrain, connecting the power from your foot to the rear wheel.

To be able to prolong the service life of mountain bike slug you need regular cleaning and lubrication of the slug every few trips or after trips with muddy roads. It is recommended to use a suitable lubricant and ensure that they can operate more accurately and flexibly after each ride.

In the guide below, Bicycles World will share with you how to do the simple checks and maintenance you can do to make sure your day is running at its best.

1. Prepare the necessary tools

Snail cleaning brush or specialized slug cleaning kit

– Slug cleaning solution

Grease-cleaning solvents

-Measure

2. How to detect wear?

How a chain is so flexible it doesn’t just depend on the rider’s strength, the maintenance mode, the conditions of other components and the impact of the riding environment. When a chain is worn, it becomes “stretched” which means that the components such as the roller / pin bolt of the chains become worn as they rub together causing the chain length to stretch. out. Once the chains no longer fit the teeth, it is no longer correct in switching threads.

To be able to test the wear you should try to observe and evaluate your chain while it is straining on the bike. Use the Park tool to measure speed 11/12 with 0.5% use speed reduction and 8/9/10 speed speed with 0.75% reduction.

> See also: Guide to check and replace bicycle chain periodically

3. Steps for cleaning and maintaining the chain

Too many people ride bicycles every day but they neglect to properly maintain a chain of slugs which leads to excessive corrosion resulting in poor conversion performance, go clean and maintenance now!

There are 5 main ingredients in the chain as below. The bushing is part of the inner connecting plate and is actually located inside the roller when assembled.

• Step 1: Clean the chain

To make it easier, remove the slug from the car so that it can be cleaned more easily to avoid contaminating other components such as brake lines, chassis, wheels and spokes …

Use an old toothbrush or chain brush and special detergent to remove dirt from snail eye drops To remove grease, use a dedicated solvent and soak the slug. go there .

Or use a set of specialized equipment for slug cleaning as shown below:

Pour a specific amount of detergent solvent into the pretty protective device a reasonable amount to fit the chain and clamp cover.

Hold the device on the chain, turn the disc thigh about 20 times to ensure the chain is completely cleaned.

Then use clean water to be able to clean the chain completely again with soap water, finally use a dry towel to dry the chain completely.

• Step 2: Check the chain

We recommend using the constant pressure gauge tool, use Park Tool CC-3.2 or Shimano CN42

Insert the bent end of the tool into the gap or gap of the two links and start measuring, in case the other end easily fits the chain, it should be replaced. 11/12 speed chains replaced at 0.5% default speed and 8/9/10 speed chains with 0.75% reduction.

>> See more ways to measure elongation using C-park here:

If tools aren’t available, use a rule of steel. Place the start of the middle of a wire latch. (1 link = 1 inside + 1outer), a new string will measure exactly 12 inches. 0.5% wear would be 12 1 / 16in and 0.75% wear would be 12 1 / 8in. The chain shown here is just under 0.5% which means the chain is worn out.

Stretching or rotating tools such as the Park Tool CC-2 can give variable results depending on manual pressure, so it is better to use a stationary tool.

This toolkit is used to measure the length of the chain to see how much it stretched. If the chain is within the range 0.25–0.5, it is still in good use, apart from 0.75 it is advisable to replace the chain. sold to the market is about 30 USD.

>> See more ways to use Park Toll CC2 right below:

Movements within the chain significantly increase wear and cause excessive interwoven noises and poorer movements. It’s difficult to measure, so looking at the differences in the picture above shows a new Shimano chain and below a worn one.

At this stage, also check for any hard links and scrapes from impact.

• Step 3: Conduct lubrication

There are many lubricants available on the market that can be sprayed or in bottle form, with specific formulations for both wet and dry conditions.Use WD40 or 3-in-1 oils seems very elegant. But it won’t make everything run smoothly and will cause dirt and dirt to stick to the chain and wear prematurely.

Dry oil

Based on teflon or wax. With a thin layer of dry oil when stains on the chain can be washed quickly. Use in dry condition and apply one hour before each trip.

+ Wet oil

Wet oil coats the shoe grease and keeps the chain wet, making them absorb dirt and are difficult to wash off easily. Recommended for use in wet conditions. Regular cleaning is recommended to avoid accumulation of dirt.

+ Spray oil

Chain-specific lubricants from the injector can harm brake components when in use. Make sure they are covered before applying, or remove the chain for lubrication.

– Make sure the chain is always clean, perform the reverse rotation of the disc thigh and use the oil to lubricate the small chain of oil little by little for the oil to soak into each link. Execute twice the length of the string.

Perform 7-10 reverse milling of the pedal to ensure all the links are completely lubricated. Use a dry napkin or napkin to absorb excess oil on the chain.

Split Splitter – Use the adjustable pliers to pinch the opposite ends of the connector line for easy disassembly without damage.

If you are having concerns and concerns with your mechanical abilities, you can turn to the off-road technical consultancy and the people who have the experience to make it easier and more efficient for you to complete your chain cleaning and maintenance on your own.