Part 2 – Cycling technique – Cycling long posture

Bicycle road bike In addition, it requires good physical strength and endurance, you need to pay attention to the proper pedal position, avoid focusing on a certain part too much, ensuring the body is most comfortable.

1. Arm

Don’t let your arms stiffen. Keeps the elbows slightly curved and comfortable, to absorb physical shock and not to bend over obstructions. Keep your arms in line with the body, not spreading to the sides, so as not to increase aerodynamic drag.

2. Upper body / shoulder

The most meaningful condensed word is: do not move. Imagine the calories you lose as you swing back and forth at each cycle of a 25-mile race. Use that amount of energy for cycling only. Also remember that when you are tired, you will stretch out on the saddle and bend your back. Switch to high gear once in a while and get up to kick, so that your hips and back won’t freeze.

3.Head and neck

Avoid plugging your head down, especially if you’re tired. Tilt your head from time to time to stretch and relax your neck muscles.

4.Double hands

Switch positions often to avoid frostbite and stiff upper body and fingers. Stressful grip of the handlebar is not necessary and will create muscle tension by gradually losing energy down the arm to the shoulder. Grasp the handlebar’s low grip when going downhill and when depressing at high speed, and relax on the lightly pedal brake on the handlebar. When climbing, grab the top of the handlebar to sit upright, and keep your chest open for easy breathing. While standing pedaling, gently grasp the handle brake and swing the bike gently to the side in sync with the beat of the pedal. Always remember to keep your thumb and one finger of each hand close around the brake lever or around the handlebars to avoid losing control when suddenly bumping into an obstacle.

5. Freezing

Handlebar width must be in balance with shoulder width. If you make a mistake, you should choose the wrong one in the wider handlebar to widen your chest for easier breathing. There is one and the model has a wide grip gap (in vertical position) so that large hands can easily grip the bend. Install the flat, bottom handlebar section horizontally parallel to the ground or slightly down, towards the rear brake level.

6.Hand brake

The brake handle can move around the curve of the handlebar so that you feel most comfortable holding the brake pad and doing the braking action. Most rotors choose an installation position so that the end of the brake handle will just reach the ruler if you place the check ruler along the flat lowest part of the handlebar.

7 The height of the stem increases

With a moderate stump height (usually 1 inch below the top of the saddle), you’ll be ready to use the two low bars of the handlebar. Setting it lower can enhance the aerodynamic advantage but perhaps not as comfortable.

8. The upper rib of the rib and the length of the stem

These combined sizes determine your reach, and it varies depending on the flexibility and bone structure of each person. There is no optimal indication, but there is a starting point like this: When you sit comfortably in the saddle with your elbows slightly bent and your hands resting on the brake pad, this time is dirty. before will be hidden by the handlebars. This is a slightly upright sitting position, and sometimes you may find it more convenient to use a longer stem for increased aerodynamics and a more flat back.

9.Back

A flat back is the defining feature of a professional racer. A standard bicycle’s stub and top tube are essential for this, but the hip has to be flexible. The focus should be on turning your upper hips forward. Consider trying to get your belly to the top tube of the stator. That thought will help keep your back from spinning.

10.Yet height

There are many different formulas for this, but you don’t have to be a mathematician to know what an exact altitude looks like. Your knees should be slightly bent at the end of the pedal, and your hips should not swing over the saddle (seen from behind). Try the quick technique used at the Olympic Training Center in Colorado Springs: keep the heel and pedals back about 5 mm at the end of the cycle. Add a few millimeters if your shoe has a thinner heel than the front. Raise the saddle about 2 to 3 mm if you have long feet proportional to your height. For people with chondrommalacia – a soft or degenerative cartilage degenerative disease below the kneecap that causes pain and inflammation – a higher resting range is therapeutic. Gradually raise the saddle until the hips start to sway; then gradually lower. Each height change should only be 2mm at a time to prevent the feet from being stretched.

11.The tilt of the saddle

The saddle is set flat, you can check it with a ruler along the length of the saddle. The slightly downward position can be more comfortable if you are leaning forward in the aerobar handlebar and there is room for elbows, but too tilt makes you slide forward and shed your weight. arms up.

12.The back / back position of the saddle

When climbing a slope, the saddle tends to be pushed back for stronger attack. To test, sit comfortably between the saddle and the horizontal rolls. Strings descend from the front of the kneecap. The plumb wire end must touch the end of the plate. This is a neutral position, you can finish by loosening the scallops of the saddle and allowing the saddle to slide forward or backward. Riders who specialize in climbing, timed racing and some long-distance curves prefer to let their beams fall a few centimeters behind the end point of the fork, to further enhance the lever effect in large gear. In contrast, basin and multi-track racers prefer a forward position to increase thigh speed. Remember, if the handlebar reach is not reached, adjust the bumper, not the saddle.

13.Frame of rib

Measure from crotch to floor with bare feet standing approximately 6 inches (15cm) apart; then multiply by 0.65. This is the equivalent of the size of the side of your bike if measured along the saddle. On double testing, including the saddle stake, add about 4 to 5 inches if the seat is at the correct height. (Of course, the line indicating the maximum length of the saddle is not shown). One more important dimension, however, is the reach from the saddle to the handlebar. Because the seat height is quick, easy and inexpensive to adjust, while the reach is difficult to change. In addition, many modern rib models use a “compact” design with a slightly steep top tube making the formula easy to argue with.

14 Rain

Just slide your butt back or forward in the saddle and you’ll use different muscle groups. This can be useful for long steep climbs. Moving forward is using the quadriceps, in front of the thighs, while backing up, putting strength in the opposite side, on the hamstrings and glutes.

15.Feet

Try to see the footprints as you step out of the pool. Some people hide like a dove’s feet and others have propeller feet. To protect your knee from injury try to use a can position that follows the natural shape of the foot. Adjust the can after cycling until you feel your best, or ask a store to help you with the adjustment tools. If not, use a treadless pedestal so that the foot can be rotated easily, then there is no need for adjustment. Position the can so that the largest part of each foot is just a little in front of the pedals.

16. Roll length (plate)

People tend to use longer rolls. This can add more force, but may limit the speed at which the pedal is turned. In general, if the crotch to the floor is less than 29 inches (73.66cm) long, use 165mm sausages; If it is 29 to 32 inches (to 81.28 cm), use 175mm. The length of the spring is calculated from the center of the central shaft screw to the center of the bolt hole. These numbers are usually stamped on the inside of the roll.

If you are newbie, you can check out these advice on choosing to buy sports bicycles from experts experienced in this field to be able to choose the right car and set the height and size of the parts better suited to the most comfortable sitting posture.

Source: Fanpage – Bicycle Domain

>> See more Serie: Cycling technique

Part 1: Mountain bike riding posture

Part 3: Top coaches’ advice