Video – The process of assembling a Groupset Sram set for bicycles

Have you ever wondered how to assemble a kit Groupset for sports bikes like? Install any components before the next to most suitable. Here we show you how to assemble the kit Groupset Sram Eagle:

SRAM The Red eTap is a revolutionary wireless group and the most premium group Every detail of each part is delicately finished with premium materials.

Apart from the perfect conversion, one of the best things about it is that it is incredibly simple to set up, easy within anyone’s ability. With the following instructions you can set up yourself a perfect converter.

1.The necessary tools

With just a few basic tools, you can completely install the SRAM Red eTab on your bike, setting it up with perfect conversions in a very short time.

What you need to prepare is:

+ Allen locks (5mm, 4mm, 2.5mm, 2mm)

+ Key Allen pins (5mm, 4mm)

+ Spanner (13mm)

+ Torque

+ Cable pliers

+ Chain cutting tools

+ Oil and grease chain

2. Carry out assembly

Step by step instructions

Press and hold the function button on the rear button until the green LED slowly blinks. Repeat this on the front wheel breaker and derailer so that pairing can be completed. Wait for 30 seconds then press and release the function button on the rear button.

Fit the shift levers by sliding them onto the handle bar and tighten the clamps around the bars with a 5mm Allen wrench. If you need to adjust the reach of the lever, this can be done using a 2.5mm Allen key in the bolt forward on the converter. Rotate clockwise to decrease reach, and counterclockwise to increase.

If you are using blips then now is a good time to match them up. Simply remove the red protective cover from the socket, then plug the plug and attach it to the bar with the insulating tape.

Next match the brake coupling pipes. Gently tighten the clamping bolts to the frame or fork. Measure the cable sheath length long enough that it can allow the control rods to fully rotate, then insert the cable sheath into the barrel adjuster above the bar. Insert the cable into the cable sheath and into the groove behind the bolt on the side. Squeeze the paper clips so they are the desired distance from the edge, pull the cable so it’s tight, then tighten the cable bolt to 6-8 Nm.

The brake pad alignment should be at least 1mm between the gasket and the edge of the edge, make sure it is aligned parallel to the brake surface, then tighten. Next, tighten the bolts to connect the brake to the frame or fork from 8-10Nm with a 5mm Allen screw. Finally, adjust the barrel adjuster until you have reached the desired space between the gaskets and the rim.

To install the front switch, first move it into position if the chain is in the large ring. This can be done using the transducer, or by pressing the function button on the trim variable.

If you are using the clip head, first attach the glue to the inside of the clip, then attach to the seat tube with a 4mm Allen buckle. Attach derailleur to the mount to 5-7Nm. If you are using a braze-on attachment, then all you need to do is attach the derailment.

Next, make sure the derailleur is properly positioned. Line the top of the sprocket with the grooves on the inside of the diverter and align the front chain with the grooves at the front and rear of the diverter. If you made it right, then there is a 1-2mm gap between the tip of the tooth on the leash and the bottom edge of the outside of the Derailleur cage.

On some frames, you also need to use a small protruding wedge between the slot and the front forehead unit to keep it secure, though this isn’t necessary on Canyon Aeroad that shows the video above.

Next, you need to install behind Derailleur. Unlike the front wheel derailer, you need to start with the rear navigation in the same position as if you were in the largest gear on your cassette. First use a 5mm Allen key to attach Derailleur to an eccentric hanger with a tightness of 5-7Nm.

The goal is to have the racing bike wheel perfectly fit the teeth on the largest gears. To adjust the derailleur off the wheel, hold down the function button on the right lever while pushing the shift lever. To move Derailleur in the other direction, do the same with the left shifter.

Use the 2.5mm Allen wrench to rotate setting screw B, located on the other side of the left guard of the battery case, to adjust the distance between the bicycle wheel and the sprocket. You should be looking for a 6-8mm gap between the bottom of the trunk and the top of the bicycle wheel.

This tool is also used to adjust the transformer limits. The low limit controls how the transformer can be switched to the wheel, with the adjustment screw located just below the battery housing. You should adjust this so that it only lightly touches the dislocated arm.

To do the same with the high limit, first change the amplifier so that it is lined with the smallest gear on the clutch, then adjust the high-limit screw (located on the right of the battery case) so that it gently touches. on the derailment arm.

Next, you need to install the strings. Wrap the chain around the large chain and the largest rear chain. From where the response chain adds an outer and an inner link. Remove any excess links using a chain cutter.

Move the chain to the smallest rear wheel, lead the way through the rear Derailleur, then connect the ends with an SRAM electric lock, or if you are using a Shimano chain, then with a coupling pin.

While the rear end has been properly adjusted, you still need to do the same with the rear wheels. To start changing the chain go to the large sprocket and shuffle the smallest sprocket.

The first step is to adjust the high-limit screw. It’s located on the outside of the front handlebar, just below the “Red” logo. Use the clockwise 2.5mm Allen wrench to move the Derailleur inward and counterclockwise to move it outwards, until you have a 0.5mm gap between the outside of the Derailleur cage and the chain.

To adjust the low limit, replace the chain with the small and largest chain. The low limit screw is also located on the outside of the derailment arm, just below the high limit screw. The low-limit screw is threaded in the other direction to the high screw, so you need to rotate it clockwise to move it out of the frame and counterclockwise to move in the opposite direction. You should aim for a distance of 0.5-1mm between the chain and the rear cage.

Finally, you may need to adjust the rear differential to achieve perfect movement. To move the rear deflector forward forward, press the function button on the right side of the diverter while simultaneously pushing the navigation lever, and to move the Derailleur inside do the same, but in the translator turn left. It’s possible that the micro-adjustment might be too small for you to see it, so look out for the light on the rear taillights to see the lights flicker and make sure there’s been a correction.

Video tutorial assembling Groupset eTAP Sram:

With the above detailed instructions, hopefully you can completely assemble and upgrade your own Bicycle racing mine. If you are not confident in your assembly ability, please seek expert help Detailed advice on bicycle engineering and get the most detailed assembly instructions possible. Wish you will have an enjoyable assembly experience.